Among the 36 signature dishes of Hangzhou, braised ham in honey sauce stands as a legendary creation. Its ingredients are carefully selected, using only a small section of the finest Jinhua ham, specifically from the "middle block."
The preparation process is intricate, requiring rock sugar and yellow wine, followed by a method of "three-time steaming," making it a time-consuming and labor-intensive dish. Due to the meticulous craftsmanship and the lengthy preparation, despite being a renowned Hangzhou specialty, it rarely appears on regular restaurant menus, and only a few lucky diners have had the privilege of tasting its unique flavor.
But is there a way to allow more people to enjoy this iconic dish? After extensive trials, Sheng Zhongfei, Executive Chef at Hangzhou Zhiweiguan, made an innovation by refining the traditional recipe. Instead of large chunks of ham, he now cuts the ham into thin 0.3 cm slices, which are then steamed three times, each session lasting only 40 minutes to an hour. This drastically reduces the time needed from three days to just one day, allowing the dish to be served more efficiently while retaining the essence of its traditional flavor.
"The ham should ideally be two to three years old. Since the steaming time is shortened, the skin of the ham needs to be removed," Sheng explains. "Before steaming, place the yellow wine, rock sugar, and ham in a container, adding just enough water to cover the ham. After each steaming, the broth should be drained, and then yellow wine, rock sugar, and water should be added again." While the steaming process has been simplified, the details remain crucial. "Draining the broth is necessary to remove excess salt, allowing the sweetness to better infuse into the ham."
Beyond the sliced ham, the inclusion of Yunnan rushan cheese, a crispy, fan-shaped dairy product, adds a creative twist to this traditional dish. "Rushan cheese, when deep-fried, develops a crispy texture that complements the ham perfectly," Sheng shares.
This "Chinese cheese," according to Sheng, is known for its rich milky aroma and unique chewiness. After being fried, it puffs up instantly, creating a crispy, light texture. When the crispy rushan cheese cradles the soft, tender braised ham in honey sauce, the combination of rich dairy flavors and the savory ham creates a harmonious balance of taste with layers of complexity.
In Yunnan, rose petal sauce is often paired with rushan cheese, but Sheng takes a different approach, forgoing the rose petal sauce in favor of something that evokes the spirit of West Lake — lotus flowers. He creates a homemade lotus honey sauce, finely chopping lotus petals and simmering them with honey, adding a hint of roselle to enhance the color. This gives rushan cheese a distinctive Hangzhou touch.
With a sweet, fragrant base, the crispy, milky flavor of rushan cheese and the refreshing sweetness of the lotus honey sauce perfectly balance the rich, savory ham. As you take a bite of this dish, the mingling of sweet and savory notes creates an unforgettable experience — aromatic but not overwhelming, leaving you with a lingering aftertaste that you will savor again and again.
(Reporters & Camerapeople: Lian Manyu; Video Editors: Yi, Lian Manyu; English Editor: Darius)
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