City Spotlight | Wan Chai Heritage Trail Part II: Cultural heritage trail
By J. B. Browne
In Part I of the Wan Chai Heritage Trail, we touched on the tour's architectural highlights. There is, however, another element to the trail. Traditional sites are often an official location where political, military, religious, or social history is preserved due to their cultural and historical relevance. Standing out with attractive looks is one thing; having historical significance is another. Far from being just a party district, Wan Chai is home to dim sum restaurants, parks, AND historical and cultural temples.
Launched in 2009, the trail is divided into two parts. Part II will focus on the cultural landmarks, including Pak Tai Temple, Old Wan Chai Post Office, and the Hung Shing Temple. So come with us on a journey of discovery and take a stroll through the haze of the city's local and colonial past deep down in the heart of Wan Chai.
Pak Tai Temple
2 Lung On Street
Just a hundred meters or so up from the Blue House cluster of colorful buildings near the upper end of Stone Nullah Lane lies Pak Tai Temple, built by locals in 1863. Dedicated to Pak Tai, a martial deity in Chinese religion, the site houses a 9.8 foot Ming Dynasty statue of the cosmological warrior-god erected in 1603. The temple is notable for having a large number of lotus lanterns throughout the grounds. Declared an official monument in 2019, the exquisitely built temple is the biggest on Hong Kong Island, consisting of three halls with the main hall housing the image of Pak Tai. Flanking on both sides is the images of Lung Mo (Dragon Mother), the Three Pristine Ones, and the God of Wealth. People come seeking blessings from Pak Tai during Pak Tai Festival, which falls on the third lunar month's third day.
Old Wan Chai Post Office
221 Queen's Road East
The former Wan Chai Post Office is the oldest surviving post office in Hong Kong. Its age belies its presence, though, as you might very well miss it if you're walking on the same side of the street or weren't looking. Situated at the junction of Queen's Road East and Wan Chai Gap Road, the small hut-ish building was constructed in the early 20th century around 1912 or 1913 and was opened for communication in 1915. It's not certain if the building was built for the express purposes of sending correspondence. Still, in any case, its doors closed in 1992, having served as a pillar to Wan Chai communities for 77-odd years. An L-shaped building with a pitched roof structure, the letter pigeon holes, various moldings, and gable ends have generally been well-preserved. Decorated with pretty turquoise french window shutters, the building is now an environmental resource center. The post office was declared a Hong Kong monument in 1990 and still stands as a perfect timepiece to a long-forgotten world.
Hung Shing Temple
129–131 Queen's Road East
Another temple you might very well miss if you weren't looking for it, Hung Shing Temple, was likely built in 1847. However, historians aren't exactly sure as it may have existed as a shrine previously. As the name implies, the temple is dedicated to Hung Shing, a deity from Chinese folklore. The most accepted Hung Shing legend is that he was once a virtuous government official during the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907). He made great strides in mathematics, geography, and even astronomy in his lifetime, even establishing an observatory to observe meteorological changes, which helped fishermen and sea traders immensely. As is to be expected, today, the temple is engulfed in commercial and residential buildings. Hung Shing acolytes pray at the temple on the 1st and 15th day of each lunar month. There are other Hung Shing temples throughout Hong Kong. This simple one-hall building has been listed as a Grade 1 historic building since 1987, forming an indispensable part of the Wan Chai Heritage Trail.
How to Get There
The nearest MTR station is Wan Chai to the start of the trail at Mallory Street. Follow the tram route east along Johnston Road from Exit A3, then follow Wan Chai Road at the intersection of Johnston Road for a short walk to Mallory Street.
Trams operating along the main route through Wan Chai travel along Johnston Road, passing both start and endpoints.
Queens Road East, Johnston Road, and Hennessy Road are served by numerous bus routes.
The trail's finish is close to Exit G of Admiralty MTR Station at Three Pacific Place (Startstreet Precinct).
Happy trailing.
Please check out Part I here:
https://english.dotdotnews.com/a/202010/28/AP5f9931b2e4b0d578cada6ba3.html
As he would refer himself, J.B. Browne is a half "foreign devil" living with anxiety relieved by purchase. HK-born Writer/Musician/Tinkerer.
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