In Daqing, the "city of oil" of Northeast China, when asked which food best carries the locals' taste memories and emotional resonance, pit barbecue is always the answer. Born in the early days of oil field development, this unique cooking method has been refined for more than half a century, evolving from a humble meal for oil workers into a vital culinary symbol of the city's culture.
Craftsmanship passed down through rugged method
In downtown Daqing, at an 80-square-meter pit barbecue restaurant, Sun Jing is placing marinated lamb ribs, goose eggs, and potatoes into the pit. "Pit barbecue emphasizes the natural flavors of the ingredients, which are prepped simply." She noted, "Once the charcoal is fully lit, the ingredients are placed in the pit. The pit is then covered with hot ashes and sealed with soil, allowing the food to slow-roast for 40 to 50 minutes."
A pit is dug on site, heated with firewood, and the ingredients are wrapped and slow-roasted in the pit. This cooking method, originating in the 1950s and 1960s, was once a survival technique for oil workers in the field. Today, it has evolved into the "Eight Pit-Roasted Classics" system, featuring dozens of ingredients, including meats, poultry, eggs, and root vegetables. It has even inspired a local saying: "Anything can be pit-roasted."
Nightfall brings acelebration of tastes
As the city lights come on, Daqing's pit barbecue restaurants enter their prime hours. In the kitchen, chefs orchestrate the ingredients like conductors of a symphony. Racks of lamb, chicken, and other hearty dishes hang near the pit walls above the charcoal, while potatoes, sweet potatoes, and goose eggs are placed along the outer edge, forming a clearly layered "roast matrix."
After 40 minutes, the lamb racks are golden and dripping with a crispy crust. When cut open, the goose eggs reveal a creamy yolk and firm white. The roasted potatoes and sweet potatoes are crisp on the outside, soft inside, reflecting the character of northeasterners—tough on the outside, tender at heart.
"No matter how tiring work gets, a pit barbecue makes it all better," said Mr. Wang as he bit into a rack of lamb. Seated around the pit barbecue table, people shed their work identities and turn life's little worries into lively conversation, amid the sizzle of roasting food and clinking of glasses.
The hearty way of eating, with diners biting into their food with their hands, mirrors the bold and generous character of the city's residents and quietly embodies the spirit of the place.
From survival ingenuity to cultural DNA
Pit barbecue began as a simple meal for oil workers and has grown into a citywide specialty. Its evolution reflects Daqing's urban development. Ingredients have expanded from just over a dozen to a wide array, while potatoes, eggs, and sweet potatoes continue to hold a central place in the "Eight Pit-Roasted Classics," bearing witness to the city's commitment to tradition in an era of abundance.
"Pit barbecue is like a flavor etched into the DNA of Daqing residents," a cultural scholar notes, "it carries the collective memory of oil workers' struggle against the harsh conditions and has evolved into a social symbol of the city."
As dawn breaks, the diners who enjoyed a pit barbecue the night before rise to greet the new day. The smoky flavor still lingers on their lips, transforming into a source of energy to carry them through the day.
(Reporters & Camerapeople: Yu Haijiang | Editing: Yi, Yu Haijiang | Translator: Cheng Yurui)
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