"Happiness is what matters most!" 103-year-old Tong Sun-yiu smiles, saying she knows no secret to longevity—just going with the flow. She sighs at how swiftly time flies, as her husband Leung Shiu-kam leans in beside her and adds, "I'll turn 105 after the new year!" This deeply devoted couple has spent 80 years together and now enjoys the blessings of four generations under one roof, possibly making them the longest-married couple in Hong Kong. Over the past two years, Secretary for Labour and Welfare Chris Sun has sent personal letters to congratulate them on their 101st birthdays.
Reminiscing about the past, the two elders speak with lively interest. The words they return to most often are "learn" and "eat." Both were born in Enping, Guangdong. Leung's family ran a herbal medicine business, but in those turbulent times, at just 12 years old, he left for HK to learn tailoring. Apprenticeship life was tough—he had to pay tuition upfront, wake at 5 am daily to prepare hot water for his master, and handle all sorts of chores. He picked up the craft gradually, largely by secretly observing his master at work.
Food was always a top priority. The meals provided during his apprenticeship were simple and light. What Leung missed most was his hometown's Enping-style braised pork knuckle. After three years of hard work, just as he had finally mastered the trade, the war broke out, HK fell, and he had no choice but to return to Enping to seek refuge.
Starting a new business in Central: A tailor shop and a fresh beginning
"Life is always full of surprises, but you must never give up," reflects Leung. After returning to Enping, he tried his hand at everything—carrying bundles of old clothes to the market, running a grocery shop, and even operating a riverside teahouse. Patrons would toss their steamers into the river, and some even left without paying, yet business remained decent. Sadly, the teahouse was eventually looted during the war, forcing its closure.
"When the war finally ended, everything had to start all over again. No matter—never give up!" The Leung family was fortunate; at least everyone had survived intact. After the war, he ventured into the cloth-selling business, only to lose all his capital. After several twists and turns, with the help of a friend, he returned to HK at the age of 23.
For Leung, tailoring remained the most familiar trade. Drawing on the skills he had acquired earlier, he opened his own tailor shop in Central, and life gradually settled into stability. At 25, he married Tong Sun-yiu, a fellow villager from Enping, and the couple went on to raise four children. It wasn’t until he turned 60, when his declining eyesight made it impossible to continue the meticulous work of tailoring, that his life took another turn—this time toward the art of cooking.
Retiring to the kitchen, mastering hometown's pork stew
Leung often says, "I love good food; eating makes me happy." After a century of life, he still believes the most delicious dish is Enping-style braised pork knuckle. After retirement, he took on the role of learning to become a cook, dedicating himself to creating the tastiest meals for himself and his family.
"Actually, I learned all my cooking skills from newspapers," Leung recalls. Back in the day, newspapers often featured culinary columns with step-by-step recipes, and he followed them diligently. He became so skilled that even professional chefs from restaurants came to seek his advice. Yet, with a smile, he admits that his true specialty remains Enping-style braised pork knuckle. He enthusiastically explains the process: heat the wok until hot, stir-fry the pork knuckles, add a splash of wine, and cook until about 70–80% dry before ladling out the water. Then, heat another wok, add oil, and sauté ginger until fragrant, before combining it with the pork knuckles to braise slowly...
This braised pork knuckle is indeed a traditional Enping home-style dish, carrying with it the warmth of local flavors and nostalgic memories. Leung also often mentions Enping-style pork knuckle rice, which has become a staple in his daily meals. Listening to this centenarian speak with such vibrant enthusiasm, it's hard not to be swept up in his joy.
The story of this centenarian couple has attracted many visitors. Whenever someone asks Mrs. Tong what she loves about Mr. Leung, she always says with a smile, "I used to love his tailoring, but now I love his cooking the most!"
(Source: Ta Kung Pao | Editor: Phoebe, Liu Yu)
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