The wheat-ear-shaped pork kidney slices curl gracefully within the plate, while the wok aroma rises, sealing in the fleeting freshness. Rooted in the centuries-old tradition of Shandong cuisine, stir-fried pork kidney has become an irreplaceable classic, known for its meticulous knife skills and precise control of heat. To unlock the flavor profile of this signature dish, we visit the classic Xiaoguanghan restaurant in Jinan. Guided by Head Chef Dou Guangwu, we witness each step of this traditional dish's preparation, from selecting the ingredients to the final dish. In the process, we uncover its unique taste—tender and smooth, with a savory flavor balanced by a hint of sourness and no trace of gaminess.
Stir-fried pork kidney is a well-known signature dish of Shandong cuisine, and its essence lies in "stir-frying over high heat." Dou holds a fresh pig kidney in his hand and gets straight to the point. He points at it and explains that the "pale-yellow variety" is preferred. This type of pork kidney is especially tender and smooth, with a milder gamey smell than regular kidneys, forming the base of the dish. As for the preparation, no detail can be overlooked: the outer membrane must be peeled off thoroughly, and the white tendon inside must be completely removed. "These two parts are the source of the strong gamey smell. In making Shandong cuisine, we emphasize 'remove the unwanted flavors and allow the good flavors to enter.' The first step is to make sure it is clean and prepared."
Once the gamey smell is removed, the challenging part—scoring the kidney—begins. Dou twists his wrist lightly, slicing the pork kidney at a 45-degree angle. Each cut is made with perfect depth. Then, he switches to a straight push cut, following the lines of the reverse slices, with even spacing and steady pressure. In an instant, the once-flat kidney slices bloom into layers of "wheat ears," with tight, curled patterns, resembling full wheat husks. The scoring isn't just for looks; every twist has its meaning. Each cut curls like a wheat ear, symbolizing a bountiful harvest, representing the Chinese hope for a prosperous life.
After the scoring is finished, the pork kidney needs to be coated and marinated. To keep the texture tender after frying, Dou adds a little oil and cornstarch to the pork kidney and gently tosses it together. At the same time, he quickly prepares the key "stir-fry sauce": starting with aged vinegar, he adds soy sauce and dark soy sauce to improve color and aroma, followed by flavored oil, sugar, MSG, and white pepper. Finally, he adds a few drops of sesame oil to enhance the flavor.
Dou closely monitors the oil temperature, reminding, "The oil should reach the shimmering stage, around 180°C." As the oil begins to ripple and bubble in the wok, he decisively slides the coated pork kidneys into the pan. With a sharp sizzle, the kidneys curl instantly upon contact with the hot oil. He quickly drains them and then begins stir-frying minced garlic to release its aroma. Next, he adds the kidneys back into the wok along with blanched wood ear mushrooms, sliced Chinese yams, and garlic shoots, then pours in the pre-mixed sauce. Instantly, a rich aroma fills the air. The whole process takes just a few seconds.
In just a few minutes, a steaming plate of stir-fried pork kidney, infused with rich wok aroma, is ready to serve. Guests can judge the success of the dish in two steps: first, by observing its shape and color; second, by tasting its flavor. On the plate, each slice of pork kidney, cut into wheat ear shapes, is plump and elegantly curled, glistening with a rich, glossy sauce and releasing an intense wok fragrance. Chef Dou explains, "When it hits your palate, it should offer a savory freshness with a hint of appetizing sourness. The texture must be tender, fresh, and crisp. Most importantly, there should be no trace of gaminess or off-flavors. Only when all three criteria are met can this stir-fried pork kidney be considered truly successful."
(Reporters & Camerapeople: Hu Wolong, Zhu Xiaokun (Intern); Editing: Yi, Hu Wolong, Zhu Xiaokun (Intern); Translator: Cheng Yurui; English Editor: Darius)
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