
By Dr. Kevin Lau
In the past, it was not difficult to find a dai pai dong (open-air food stall) in Hong Kong. There would always be one or two stalls on every street corner, starting their business early in the morning, serving congee, noodles, rice, coffee, milk tea, and sandwiches for breakfast. During lunchtime, they would offer stir-fried dishes, and in the evening, they would serve delicious wok-cooked meals.
Recently, two intangible cultural heritage projects, Birthday of Tin Hau and the Craftsmanship of Chinese Changshan (traditional Chinese long gown), were successfully included in the fifth batch of the "Representative List of National Intangible Cultural Heritage" announced by the State Council. The inheritors of these projects were awarded plaques by the Minister of Culture and Tourism, recognizing their efforts in preserving and promoting these cultural traditions.
However, like many Hong Kongers, I feel that compared to childhood, the culturally distinctive aspects of local culture are gradually disappearing, and at a fast pace. Take dai pai dongs as an example. Not only in new towns but even in the old urban areas, it has become quite challenging to find a dai pai dong to grab a bite to eat. Since the 1970s, the government has regulated the cityscape and required the consolidation of dai pai dongs that were scattered on different streets. Some stall owners had to relocate to cooked food centers, while those who refused to move had to surrender their licenses and receive compensation, effectively putting an end to their businesses. With the rise of air-conditioned and comfortable fast-food restaurants, Hong Kong people's eating habits changed, causing a decline in customers for dai pai dongs and shrinking their survival space.
It's not just dai pai dongs that are disappearing; many other local cultural elements unique to Hong Kong are also at risk. When the author was young, they noticed that the characters on mahjong tiles were not all the same. It turns out that many mahjong tiles were hand-carved, representing a traditional craftsmanship unique to Hong Kong. The intricate carvings on the tiles added a special touch to the game, reflecting the artistry and dedication of the craftsmen. However, nowadays, machine-made tiles have become the norm, and the skill of hand-carving is slowly vanishing.
Additionally, Hong Kong used to have a popular "bird keeping" culture. Bird enthusiasts would meticulously care for and train their pet birds, finding solace and joy in the melodious chirping of their feathered companions. Even today, you can occasionally see elderly men leisurely strolling in parks, carrying handcrafted birdcages. These birdcages were carefully crafted, often passed down through generations, and served as both a functional and artistic piece. However, with changing lifestyles and urbanization, the bird-keeping culture is fading away, and the art of handcrafting birdcages is being lost. These cultural elements, such as hand-carved mahjong tiles and handmade birdcages, are not merely artifacts or traditions but represent a significant part of Hong Kong's identity and heritage. They are a testament to the craftsmanship, creativity, and values of the local community. Losing these cultural treasures would mean losing a part of Hong Kong's soul and character.
Preserving and reviving local culture is not only essential for the cultural heritage of Hong Kong but also for the future of tourism. Modern travelers seek "deep travel" experiences and want to immerse themselves in local culture, traditions, and customs. If we preserve our local culture well, it could become a core attraction for cultural tourism in Hong Kong. In fact, many foreign tourists are highly interested in Hong Kong's local culture and are willing to visit multiple times to delve into feng shui, tai chi, Cantonese opera, and Hong Kong-style cuisine, among other cultural aspects.
Efforts are being made to preserve and promote local culture in Hong Kong. Organizations, cultural groups, and individuals are working tirelessly to document, revive, and pass on traditional skills and knowledge to future generations. Government support and public awareness are crucial in this endeavor. It is essential for both residents and visitors to value and appreciate the local culture, encourage its continuation, and actively participate in preserving and promoting it.
By cherishing and safeguarding the disappearing local culture, we can celebrate Hong Kong's unique identity, foster cultural diversity, and create a more vibrant and inclusive society for generations to come. Let us treasure the intangible heritage that defines us and ensure that our rich cultural legacy continues to thrive in the ever-changing landscape of Hong Kong.
The author is a specialist in radiology, with a master's degree in Public Health from the University of Hong Kong, and an adviser of Our Hong Kong Foundation.
The views do not necessarily reflect those of DotDotNews.
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